Dearest friends and family from all over the world,
I've been meaning to update the blog for a while now, and for some reason today is the day I've finally found the time to do it. Since my last post, it's certainly been a wild ride! At the moment, I am writing to you from a tiny Scottish island off the Northwest coast, called Barra, and it seems like a world away. I am in my second year of my PhD, currently conducting field work here.
I've been here since October and life has been a challenge, but I like a challenge. The winter has proved the most challenging of all because of the strong gales (which often cancel the ferries that bring fresh supplies to the island) and long nights (at its earliest, the sun sets at about 3:30pm), but now the days are growing more sunny as the weather grows calmer, giving me an opportunity to explore the island. It is one of the most beautiful places I've been to with wind swept, sandy beaches, Caribbean-like waters (though unfortunately not as warm) and a type of tranquility that I've not experienced in a while. It is a small, somewhat insular, island community with a population of 1,200. Though everyone speaks English, Gaelic is often the preferred language, especially among the elderly. It is a beautiful, sing-song language and I've been taking lessons in an attempt to at least become conversational.
In some ways, it is like a community frozen in time where people trust each other, do not lock their doors and where spending time catching up with loved ones and acquaintances has priority over work. It is also a religious community where over 90 percent of the population is Catholic. There is one active priest on the island to serve 5 Catholic churches, no easy task! Many still go to Mass each Sunday and they often employ Gaelic readings and hymns in Mass. This is the focus of my research. For my PhD, I am exploring the relationship between Catholicism and the Gaelic language, specifically local beliefs and rituals indicating a localized form of Catholicism I term: Gaelic Catholicism. It's only been 6 months and my research in still in its infancy, as I try to get to know the locals and vice versa. Naturally, the locals of this small community were initially suspicious of me and my why I was here, but I feel that I am slowly growing to know them as they grow to know me.
At the moment, I am teaching yoga twice a week, in addition to having a chair yoga session once a week for adults with special needs. It is quite rewarding. Recently, I just got a summer job at the small airport cafe and I have an opportunity to meet tourist and locals. Interestingly, most tourists interested in my accent think I am Canadian. The small airport is a tourist attraction in itself because the small propeller plane takes off and lands right on the beach. It is quite a sight to see!
So living on a remote island certainly has its challenges, but it is an interesting place to live and I am grateful that I have the opportunity to research here. I've also included some pictures I've taken from around the island. The upcoming summer is a busy time for the island with many festivals and other events, so I will be sure to post another update along with pictures. Until then, moran taing (many thanks in Gaelic) for your continued interest and support. I am so grateful!!!
(Photos captions starting from the top: Deserted boats in the small bay; me blowing out the candles of my 30th birthday in Barra; 'Sea Jesus' shell mosaic on the side of Northbay church; stained glass in Castlebay church, notice Gaelic writing; finally, view of Castlebay village, population of about 300, where we live too, and view of Kisimul Castle, where the village gets its name.)
